Craftsman LT1000 Briggs & Stratton engine Stalls after warm up.

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In this video I explain how I fixed the hot stalling problem with my LT1000. This should also apply to other Briggs & Stratton powered equipment.

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Craftsman LT1000 Briggs & Stratton engine Stalls
(currently running)

Craftsman LT1000 Briggs & Stratton engine Stalls Tune-up Includes:
• Blade Sharpened and Balanced
• Oil Change
• Inspect Air Filter (replace or clean as needed)
• Replace Spark Plug
• Clean and adjust the carburetor
• Lubrication (cables and grease fittings)
• Adjustments
• Clean off debris
• Replace any in-line fuel filter
• Check any belts for wear
• Conduct operational test

Craftsman Riding lawn mower (except John Deere)
(currently running)
$199.00 John Deere models $250.00

Tune-up Includes:
• Blade(s) Sharpened and Balanced
• Oil Change
• Inspect Air Filter (replace or clean as needed)
• Replace Spark Plug(s)
• Clean and adjust the carburetor
• Lubrication (cables and grease fittings)
• Adjustments
• Clean off debris
• Replace any in-line fuel filter
• Check belts for wear
• Check tires and inflate to specifications
• Oil filter, if equipped is $18.00 extra
• Conduct operational test

Zero Turn mower
(currently running)

Tune-up Includes:
. same service described for Riding lawn mower

(contact for pricing)
• Belt(s) Replacement
• Blade(s) Replacement
• Tires
• Batteries

Craftsman LT1000 Briggs & Stratton engine Stalls Denver Aurora

Craftsman LT1000 Briggs & Stratton engine Stalls Denver Aurora


William Wynn says:

HELP !!! I have a Craftsman LT1000 an the model number sticker under seat is gone. When I go to get parts they say they can not help me with out that number. If anyone has a Craftsman LT 1000 that came with a Briggs Intek 17.5 , 42 in cut. Regular 6 speed shift. And could give tell me that numbers I would be most greatful. I can make out some of the number,
917.271 ?? 2

yankee captain says:

any and all information is worth while if you don't have it, and any one who complains about free information just needs their diaper changed, and I thank you for your time and effort to provide it, Yankee

Jan Co says:

I changed the fuel solenoid as you showed, very easy by the way, but now the tractor wont start. Nothing. Doesn't turn over at all. I even put the old solenoid back in, still won't start. Any ideas?

Larry New says:

I have an LT 1000 with a 21 hp v twin engine.You won't buy that fuel solenoid cut off for $30-50.They start at $106.99 from B/S and there are no Chinese knock-offs. .Just take it off and cut the tip off it and put it back on.Then install an inline manual cut-off for $4.00 on Amazon.

David Haskins says:

Thanks Clayton. I've been having the same issue with my Craftsman DYT4000 ride on with the same motor. Gonna try your fix tomorrow. Don't worry about the haters out there. If you enjoy making helpful videos then the haters can take a BIG FLYIN FUC*. Keep up the fine work. Thanks.

Michael Bland says:

Mine I think is about ready for a whole new carburetor and solenoid unless again i re-clean the old one it needs two new gaskets

briandd27 says:

Thanks for the video. I'm having a similar issue with my old Murray riding mower. I put new Gator blades on it and mowed with it for a while and then it suddenly wants to stall.

Nick l says:

Solved!! Thank you. This has been a problem for the last 2 years. Changed out the fuel Solenoid and now its fixed. $8 on Ebay. Thanks a bunch.
Briggs & Stratton Carb Carburetor Fuel Solenoid Part #(s) 699915 794572 796109 799728

David Logan says:

When it dies, if you remove the air filter cover & remove the air filter, can you look down & see any liquid (wet) gas down in the neck of the carbs air intake at all? It "should" be dry down there.
Mine did this & I had to rebuild the carb. so basicaly the float sat down lower than recommended, so lower down into the bowl than per the specks, so it would cut-off the gas sooner. Basically, you'd be trying to lower the fuel level in the bowl.

Also, make sure the O-ring in the fuel lift tube is also sealing very well.
Once I got the fuel level lower, my mower ran fine & it still had plenty of fuel despite the lower bowls lower gas level.
BTW There are some very simple "tricks" to help set the level lower too.
Hope it helps

yhshwh says:

Hey Clayton…. I've got one of those zenith clock radios, and was wondering if you could help me out possibly.. you can email me at if you have a minute or two & dont mind I would really appreciate it

Bryan B says:

When you change the selinoid, is it required to change the harness as well?

Don Matthews says:

One small correction about your description of how the solenoid works (not a bash, just a correction because I hear a lot of folks describing its function incorrectly.) When the solenoid activates, a electo-magnetic force pulls the plunger down and permits fuel to flow through the emulsion tube and then into the carburetor throat where it is atomized. When you deactivate the solenoid by turning the key off, the electro-magnetic field is de-energized and the plunger is forced up into the emulsion tube opening, blocking the flow of fuel into the throat of the carburetor. This prevents additional fuel from being pulled into the hot engine as it spins down and prevents a backfire of the motor.

RonRay says:

This same thing happened to me. The first thing I considered was this fuel solenoid.
I found it cheaper to change out the entire carburetor, but that didn't fix my problem (run for 15 minutes then quit).
I then changed the coil- no help! I changed the fuel filter and the air filter- still the same!
Today, I removed the head and will install a new head gasket tomorrow… I have now learned from YouTube videos that sometimes a sticky or dirty gas cap will do this. I don't know. I'm about to the point of jacking it up and putting a new lawn mower under it!

Bill OBryan says:

You wouldn't happen to have that part number would you as I cannot seem to find it anywhere? Thanks.

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